In the Old World, aging in a vessel is called élevage — literally 'raising' the wine. So what are the options for wine to come of age?
Used since ye' olden days, amphoras are typically egg or pear-shaped clay fermentation vessels. They serve as the OG containers for storing, transporting and aging wine. The unique shape of amphoras allows lees (dead yeast) to continue moving during fermentation. This extended contact of wine with lees facilitates the development of complex textures and flavours – a particularly sought-after feature of skin contact wines.
Amphoras maintain a consistent temperature for wine in the cellar and promote natural settling (sediment falling to the bottom of the fermenter) – a bonus when no fining (removing wine chunks) is involved. It’s not uncommon for wines from Friuli and Central-Eastern Europe to be matured with their skins for well over six months – a Steiner-school approach to wine maturation.
Oak barrels became a la mode over amphoras in the Roman Times. After all, they were easier to transport full of grog. Oak smooths out tannins and acidity while imparting aromas and flavour compounds. Barrel-makers (or coopers) mainly use oak from France, the US, or Croatia. American oak is known for its sweeter vanilla notes and touches of coconut, while French oak’s profile leans towards subtle vanilla and baking spice. French wood is a lot more expensive – the private school of élevage. Oak is graded on where it comes from, if and how it is toasted. New (or virgin) oak holds a strong influence on young wine. Think chardonnay that matures into buttery-smoothness or shiraz blossoming with spice. Aged oak that's seen a few vintages leaves a much softer impression, with the second use of a barrel reducing its oak-iness by about half.
Concrete eggs are the vestigial vessels of the clay amphora. Like their predecessor, their shape keeps things in motion during fermentation. Heat is released from the exothermic reaction of fermentation, generating movement in the liquid. The egg shape keeps everything flowing, creating a self-stirring phenomenon that integrates the wine’s lees, adding flavour and body to the final product. This also cuts down on the need for bâttonage (constant stirring) during vinification.
Concrete’s thermal regulation allows for a similar, gradual exposure to oxygen as oak. But unlike wood, the wine’s acidity and freshness aren’t polished out. Eggs are neutral and don’t introduce any new flavours to the wine. They can also be lined with paraffin or beeswax to become non-porous when no air is desired, enabling greater varietal and terroir expression.
Relatively modern, stainless steel vats allow for temperature control and don't interfere with the fruit’s pure flavours and aromas – the Switzerland in all of this. Stainless might be selected where the preference is to let the fruit do the talking. The control that stainless steel gives winemakers means they can tame the spontaneity of fruit fermentation and the wine they produce in the end.
Vats come in all shapes and sizes, holding anywhere from 100L to 100,000L of wine. They’re very common in winemaking due to their longevity, affordability, and versatility – a winemaker’s Swiss army knife, if you will.